Nanga Parbat 1953 (1953)

“The struggle for Nanga Parbat, 8,125 m, the Mountain of Terror, is overshadowed by a tragedy without equal in the history of the battle to conquer the giant eight-thousanders of our earth. Seven expeditions—including five German ones—have tried in vain to storm this western pillar of the Himalayas. Thirty-one men, mountaineers and porters of various nationalities, lost their lives in the attempt.” It is April 17, 1953, as the German-Austrian Willy Merkl Memorial Expedition sets out to conquer the snow-covered summit of Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain on earth. The expedition is led by the Munich doctor Dr. Herrligkoffer. The expedition members reach Pakistan by ship (from Genoa to Karachi), train (across Pakistan), and plane (into the Himalayas). Here, during a solemn ceremony, they are presented with the summit flag, the flag of Pakistan. Jeeps and donkeys carry the supplies as far as the foot of the mountain, but from then on they must rely on their own strength. They walk over the Rakhiot Bridge, through Tatu and across the Fairy Meadow to the main camp at an altitude of 3,600 m. There, provisions and equipment are stored in a sturdy tent so that they can be carried up gradually by porters who have been medically supervised and equipped with warm clothing. The expedition members gather at the grave of the German mountaineer Drexel, one of the victims claimed by the mountain, and solemnly swear: “We vow, in our struggle to reach one of the highest summits on earth, to be honorable fighters, to respect the laws of comradeship, and to devote all our strength to achieving this lofty goal. For the glory of mountaineering throughout the world and the honor of our homeland. On our expedition: Berg Heil!” The ascent through deep snow, across gaping crevasses, and over towering ice avalanches is more than difficult. They keep in touch with the main camp by radio, and it also gives them suggestions for the route ahead or any necessary corrections. Progress is slow, but each day they get a little closer to the summit. When the men have established their third camp at an altitude of 6,100 m, they receive news that Mount Everest has been conquered. This further boosts their motivation. After they set up Camp IV, two small tents where they can sleep and prepare food, the main camp sends them a monsoon warning. The men are alarmed and worried. Will everything they have achieved so far have been for nothing? They try to make a push across the Rakhiot Ice Wall and are caught in hurricane-force winds. Then, suddenly, the weather improves and the sky clears, bright blue above the summit, which seems within reach. The men know they must seize this opportunity. They cross the ice wall and pass the Mohrenkopf, reaching Camp V. Hermann Buhl can no longer hold back; at midnight he sets out alone to reach the summit. He feels his way forward step by step, without an oxygen cylinder. Then the moment comes: after superhuman exertion, he reaches the summit of Nanga Parbat at around 7 p.m. and plants the Pakistani flag. “The first human being on this lonely spot since the creation of our earth.” Nightfall makes the return to Camp V too dangerous, so Buhl has to wait until dawn on a narrow ledge of rock. When he finally rejoins his companions after what seem like endless hours, they are relieved, having already feared for him. The men have won a victory to which they have all contributed. The descent demands all their strength once more. They leave the icy region above the tree line and return to Pakistan’s green forests. They are celebrated, and countless telegrams arrive for the expedition members, especially Buhl, expressing admiration for their achievement. Among them are messages from German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer and Federal President Theodor Heuss.